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They are my answer to all the take. Game Guide Find out all you need to know about the virtual world of JumpStart Game Updates Learn about all the latest game udpates FAQs See frequently asked questions. Room Challenge DIY Barnwood Welcome Sign This post may contain affiliate links for your convenience. You can view my full advertising disclosure here. The most honest review site. Free Video Box videos photos here. Watch all 150 videos in HD quality. I came in 6. 00mm from the side and the ends to find the midpoint for my oval arc. I put a screw in at this point which I tied a string to. The string had a pencil on the end at the edge of the wood which when pulled tightly you can draw a perfect arc all the way around like a big compass. You can see one edge at the back is already cut off. TIP1 I used string here, later I realised it was much easier to do this with a straight peice of wood an offcut or a broom handle etc. Room On The Broom Downloading YoutubeScrew the broom handle in at the midpoint and draw against the firm edge rather than relying on the string to stay tight. After cutting the curves off, I placed the top template over the bottom sheet of MDF. I traced around the table to make the peices fit evenly. Cut the 4 corners off the bottom sheet of MDF. You can also see in this picture that I have drawn two inner arcs. These are for the beer rail and the padded arm rail. They are equal parts, 1. Which leaves me with a 7. Note I had to sand the ply a bit as it is quite rough and makes it hard to do nice pencil lines when using string. Refer to TIP1 about string pencil lines. I have moved the bottom sheet of MDF to the side, its job is done until the final stage of my table. I have made ONE cut with the jigsaw to seperate the PADDED RAIL section. TIP2 In this step I drilled a hole just big enough to fit the jigsaw blade through on the INSIDE EDGE of the padded rail. I drilled on the inside edge because I am covering the padded rail section so you wont see the drill hole. If you did it on the center of the line, or on the outside of the line, this will ruin your beer rail I have completed the second full cut now, leaving only the felt section behind. Make sure you drill on the felt section part for the jigsaw blade to go in. You do not want the beer rail to have any pilot hole marks in it, refer to TIP2. Trusty girlfriend starts staining my beer rail. This is the second oval peice. Note we are staining the good side of the ply. Apply the stain with an old peice of cloth in a circular pattern. Even cheap ply wood comes up looking pretty good TIP3 Try your stain on an offcut, make sure its not too dark as you want to see the wood grain. If you double up re coat your stain, it will make it very dark. Note my test offcut in the middle of the table, see how the stain goes a little lighter after a few minutes soaking in. While my assistant is applying the stain out side I am about to do the felt section. I applied some spray adhesive to the back of the 6mm 14 EVA foam and to the ply wood. Cross section of 1. EVA foam. You cant see the top layer of the ply so it looks like the EVA foam is more than half the thickness, but it is not. There was an option to buy 3mm 18 thick foam, this would have been ok too I think. I went with the thick stuff because I wanted to. Trim the edges off with a pair of sharp scissors or Stanley knife. Lay out your felt, flip over your board and staple it on tight. I did this buy myself, getting a tight stretch with felt over 7. I used cheap felt from a fabric store, see the final thoughts section for more tips. I think one side left and one corner was stapled here, but you can see that it comes out pretty good. Cut off any excess felt once you have stapled it down. There it is, all stapled down. Here is my felt section, placed straight inside the beer rail. The stain is only been drying for an hour and is touch dry but I had to see how it looked. There is also no lacquer clear coat on it, this is where the delay happens, I have to sit out for 2. In comes the 5. 0mm 2 foam I am overcutting my foam by 2. Here you can see I have marked out 2 x 1. This is on the 1. I am going to end up with 2 peices of 1. This leaves me with a 1. Ok here is where I made my first mistake. I wanted to cut 2. I actually needed a 1. I was 5. 0mm 2 short in length and width which meant I had to do some wacky cutting and make and extra peice to fit. See on the far side of the half circle it wasnt quite enough to get the extra 1 padding. I had to make an extra little bit from the offcuts. Ok it kind of came out something like this, you can see on the right there that little extra peice I had to make. DONT make this mistake try and make this in as little amount of peices as possible as the joins are softer under the vinyl. This is the foam glued down with normal PVA wood glue white stuff that drys clear to the padded rail section of wood. I used a kitchen knife to make all the cuts because my jigsaw wouldnt do a neat job, maybe I needed a special blade. The guy at the foam shop uses a jigsaw with a dual blade like an electric kitchen knife. He said the electric kitchen knife would do the best job, I didnt have one, but by the time I was half way through hacking up my foam, I would have paid 1. Just go and buy one before you start, they are about AU3. 2010 Blockbuster Movies Jonah: A Veggietales Movie. US2. 0. TIP4 Do not glue between the joins. The PVA wood glue dries clear, but it also dries very stiff and hard and you can feel it through the vinyl. If you need to hold those edges together, just use the light spray adhesive. Shows a cross section of the ply and foam. A remarkably neat cut too Applied a coat of clear lacquer after a light hand sand with a fine grit paper. You just want to remove the small fibers that have lifted when the stain has dried. You should sand before the first coat of lacquer, and after the first coat. After the first coat of clear lacquer, you want to flatten out any bumps and remove any more lifted fibers. Then apply another coat, and then another one for good measure. It will be nice and shiny. Note It takes about 1. This is what will prevent you from completing this project in a day. Ok here is a little something I put together for the viewers. I built this sample rail cross section purely for illustration purposes. You can see in the picture, everything will sit on top of the MDF, the foam is glued to the ply then the vinyl is stapled underneath the ply from the inside of the rail first. Once its all in place on top of the MDF then the vinyl goes all the way down the outside edge and is stapled to the underneath of the MDF. Ok here is my straight edge circle ruling technique. No more of that crazy pencil on a string stuff, I am using a broom handle I have marked out the vinyl edges, full half circles 5. The full table layout. At the moment its in 4 peices. I ended up cutting those end peices in half making it easier to fold under and reducing the gathering. This also meant that there wasnt enough to do the overlap in the middle so I created a couple of end belts to seal the ends. The rail in place, I am going to be stapling the INSIDE of the rail only until I turn it over and apply it to the main table section. Ok here are those end belts being cut out so that I have enough to cover the end middle. Well yeah, I should have taken a few more pics in between the last step and here, but I will try and explain what I did. I stapled the inside edge the whole way around, then flipped it over and screwed from the bottom of the MDF into the padded rail to keep it in place, there was about 2. I simply folded the edges of my vinyl in about 1. As I pulled the vinyl tight and underneath the table, my friend did the stapling from the bottom. You absolutely need help here, you can not do this step by yourself. I think the fact that there are no photos in between there and here shows that this part of the job can not be taken lightly, you have to do it in one go with help.